This is the home of “Gidget.” Mecca of 1960s California surf culture. To Aussies and Brits, Malibu literally equals longboard, which are called "Mals" for short. Thousands of surfers flock to Malibu’s iconic pier in the summer hoping to catch a perfect ride.
And then there is a parallel universe of Malibu. A place where conflict is coming at all your senses. Paddling into a wave is a staredown looking over your left and right shoulders. Agro yelling and whistling escalates into people actually getting pushed off waves. You’re dodging leashless longboards and stray foamies.
Which Malibu have you been to? At the end of the summer and south swell season, we reminisced about our love/hate relationship with this famous wave. Turns out, which Malibu you end up at is in your head.
Photo of Taylor Nelson at Malibu by Colin Nearman.
SUMMER LULLABY from Aaron Kim on Vimeo.
Taylor Nelson (Seeababe, goofy foot Malibu local)
"'Summer Lullaby' is a short piece that my good friend Aaron Kim came up with. We work really well together so when he asked to meet up for a dawn patrol at the BU I was stoked and even more stoked when it was the best day of summer and nobody was out!
So many people including myself have a love/hate relationship with the BU and I think the best way to navigate it on a crowded day is to fully embrace the madness and pick your waves carefully. I think so many people get upset when they paddle out because of the crowd because they don't know how to navigate around it and also they don't know the locals that they can't drop in on.
I always hear people say "It's Malibu" referring to the crowds and then they think that its ok for them to drop in on anyone and back paddle whoever just because it is so crowded. When you grow up in the chaos you know who has put their time in the water just as you have. So when people make those comments I find it pretty disrespectful and just ignore it because I know they are only coming up to surf with "swells".
My dad has always told me 'If you can't have fun out here, you can't have fun anywhere.' That little saying of his has totally changed the way I look at surfing and has always brought me back to how blessed we are to even have the ocean to jump into. I have gotten to a point that when people forget that surfing is supposed to be fun I feel really bad for them. If they can't find joy in the water it scares me to think what they are like on land.
Malibu feels like home because of the community of friends and family I have there. I love that no matter how long I am away from that place I am always welcomed back with warm smiles and open arms."
Kathy Kohner, the original Gidget at Malibu circa 1950s. |
Makala Smith wears the Lido One-Piece. Photo by @hashtagsharkbait. |
Makala Smith (Seeababe, SanO shredder and winner of the Women's 2016 Call to the Wall)
“Quality over quantity. When you get a good wave at Malibu it's one of the best waves of your life.
But you hate the attitude. The vibe isn't how it’s supposed to be with surfing. Surfing is supposed to be alive sharing the stoke together. Sometimes when you’re there it's too much to handle. It's not what you want in the water.
Amongst the crowds and the kooks, there are a bunch of legends in the water that understand and share the stoke.
Even though you don't get the waves you want, the ones you get are perfection. Not only is it worth the wait, time and presence are nonexistent. It doesn't matter where you are in the world, a good wave in Malibu is like a good wave anywhere in the world.
The feeling of coming off a perfect wave at Malibu is like no other. You just got the perfect right of your life and the crowd is not a factor. Even though you’re in a crowd, you’re on the wave alone and that all worth it.
One wave is all it takes.
You can wait 30 minutes for a wave and deal with people back paddling you and cutting you off, but that moment when you get one… It's worth it all.
One wave, you can get out and leave satisfied. Or not, then you want more and you don't get it! Hahahaha.”
Makala Smith wears the Lido One-Piece. Photo by @hashtagsharkbait. |
Makala Smith from Bird Man Media on Vimeo.
MORE POINT BREAK DREAMING:
]]>Image courtesy of Scopo Studios. |
Eveline Van Brande. Image courtesy of Scopo Studios. |
Image courtesy of Scopo Studios. |
With more than 7,000 islands, there's surf-able waves somewhere in the Philippines at any time of year. Guided by Carla Rowland, Seeababes Taylor Nelson and Rosie Jaffurs explore this vast archipelago.
]]>Taylor Nelson wears the Tofino in Blue Tide. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
Rosie Jaffurs in the Tofino in Geo Gold Photo by Ian Zamora. |
Taylor Nelson wears the Tofino in Blue Tide. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
Taylor Nelson wears the Tofino in Blue Tide. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
In the middle of a hairflip, Taylor Nelson wears the Tofino in Blue Tide. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
|
Organizer of the event, Carla Rowland-Zamora. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
Carla with all ten toes over the nose. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
Carla's soul arch. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
Taylor Nelson in her happy place going right. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
From left to right, Taylor Bruynzeel in the Tofino in Geo Gold and Taylor Nelson in the Capitola Bikini in Geo Gold. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
Taylor Nelson with her longboard. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
Taylor Bruynzeel in the Tofino in Geo Gold and Taylor Nelson in the Capitola Bikini in Geo Gold. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
Hanging around the house. Rosie in the Capitola Bikini in Blue Tide and Taylor in the SanO in Coral. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
Off to find waves. Photo by Brendan Simmons. |
Rosie in the Leucadia Top in Black Iris and Capitola Bottom in Dot Dot Dot. Photo by Brendan Simmons. |
Rosie in the Leucadia Top in Black Iris and Capitola Bottom in Dot Dot Dot. Photo by Brendan Simmons. |
Taylor in the SanO in Coral. Photo by Brendan Simmons. |
Taylor in the Tofino in Blue Tide. Photo by Brendan Simmons. |
One of the local surfers gets a sweet nose ride. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
Fresh catch for lunch. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
The crew in a local eatery in Baler. Photo by Brendan Simmons. |
On their Waves for Water mission delivering water filters to a local school. Photo by Brendan Simmons. |
You can’t not feel butterflies looking down from this peak. Read on to play with the Seeababes in the vast oceans, rocky cliffs and expansive beaches of Oahu.
]]>funtemplatesbabes jump! Hallie wears the Pavones Bikini and Luki wears the Martinique neoprene one-piece. |
Luki O'Keefe wears the Martinique neoprene one-piece. |
Hallie wears the Capitola Top and Pavones bottom in Black Porto. |
Makala wears the Pavones Top and Capitola Bottom in Black Porto. |
Makala jumps in the Pavones Top and Capitola Bottom in Black Porto. |
Makala wears the Palmas Surf Suit. Hallie wears the Tunitas Tank and Solimar Bottoms in Black Stripe. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Makala wears the Palmas Surf Suit. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Makala wears the Palmas Surf Suit. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Makala wears the Palmas Surf Suit. Hallie wears the Tunitas Tank and Solimar Bottoms in Black Stripe. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Sea turtles! Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
|
Hallie in the Cardiff Neoprene One-Piece. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Hallie wears the Cardiff Neoprene One-Piece. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Underwater mood. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
|
Makala wears the Tunitas Tank. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Makala wears the Tunitas Tank. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Luki wears the Moonlight Rashguard Top in Tiles. |
Seeababes in the Black Porto collection. Photo by Luki O'Keefe |
Taylor in the Palomar Crop Top and Capitola Bottom, and Rosie in the Tofino One-Piece in Black Porto. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Taylor in the Palomar Crop Top and Capitola Bottom, and Rosie in the Tofino One-Piece in Black Porto. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Taylor in the Palomar Crop Top and Capitola Bottom, and Rosie in the Tofino One-Piece in Black Porto. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Taylor in the Palomar Crop Top and Capitola Bottom, Rosie in the Tofino One-Piece, Luki in the Pavones Bikini in Black Porto. |
Taylor in the Capitola Bikini in Black Porto. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Taylor in the Palomar Crop Top and Capitola Bottom, Rosie in the Tofino One-Piece, Luki in the Pavones Bikini in Black Porto. |
Raised on surfing the legendary First Point in Malibu, California girl and Seeababe Taylor Nelson thought she couldn’t get any more sun-kissed, bikini-blissed and surfed out — until she moved to Hawaii for University. Read on to meet Seeababe Taylor Nelson!
]]>Raised on surfing the legendary First Point in Malibu, California girl and Seeababe Taylor Nelson thought she couldn’t get any more sun-kissed, bikini-blissed and surfed out — until she moved to Hawaii for University.
When you’re living on an island, you’re always on your way out or going into the water. “Since I have moved to Hawaii I feel like my bathing suit collection has tripled in size, and I can say that I have surfed in each one!” Taylor laughs.
Taylor Nelson and Hawaiian BFF Rosie Jaffurs on their way to find waves. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Taylor Nelson logging in Hawaii, wearing the Hermosa in Tea Leaf. Photo by Alex Shea. |
Taylor Nelson at home amongst the palm trees, in the Hermosa in Earth Waves. Photo by Mike Bresnen. |
Some of my first memories were surfing with my dad, sister and cousin at the Channel Islands and Ventura, Santa Barbara area. We use to go sail to the islands pretty consistently and the only way to get to the islands was by kayak or surfboard. My sister, cousin, and I naturally took a liking to the ocean and surfing and paddling around the islands are some of my fondest first memories.
I got into surfing because my dad surfed. Every weekend he would take my sister and I to the beach and we both got so hooked on it. Surfing was huge part of my family growing up. It was a place where my family was able to connect and reflect on life. My dad helped start a surf ministry with my church, and that was such an important part of my childhood because I learned how to share my passion with the community.
Carla Rowland has been the most influential in my surfing style. All of the ladies at First Point in Malibu have been so influential on my surfing: Carla Rowland, Eveline VanBrande, Anna Osborne, Margaret Calvani, Andrea Kabawso and Erin Ashley. Britt Harris in Hawaii has influenced my surfing to charge bigger waves and Rosie Aldridge has helped push and encourage me and been a good new friend in Hawaii.
The people I look up to most in life are my best friends; Moriah Mclead, Eveline VanBrande, Mary Gray, and Britt Harris for being such strong women, compassionate women, my boyfriend Tyler for having a huge heart for others and perseverance and passion for following dreams.
Taylor enjoying her island home. She wears the Palomar Crop Top in Tea Leaf. Photo by Alex Shea. |
What is some of the advice that these women gave you that stuck with you?
Some of the things that the women of Malibu taught me that stuck is that I, as women, can do it. I can make that section, I can stand up for myself, and I can surf! This go-getter attitude helped encourage me in all walks of life, from school, to dealing with family and relationships. I think what was special learning from these women that I couldn’t have learned from guys was a sense of encouragement; these women were excellent tangible examples for me growing up.
What are your favorite local spots to surf?
My favorite spot is my home break, First Point, Malibu. I love it because it’s a perfect right point break.
Surfing is a time where I can be still and reflect on my life. Surfing is a more important aspect of my life now as a college student then it has ever been because I can decompress and let loose. I feel most close with God when I am in the ocean and it is such a reminder of grace.
Taylor Nelson in the Zuma in Burgundy. Photo by Mike Bresnen. |
Did you grow up surfing with a lot of girls, or mostly guys?
I grew up surfing with mostly boys. Generally my best friend Eveline and I would be the only girls out in the water surfing. I absolutely love surfing with my best girlfriends because it is so encouraging and fun. I push myself more when I am surfing with girls than boys.
I think that girls naturally have a wall up to other girls that they do not know, especially new ones at home surf spots. Because of this natural barrier I think most women have, I prefer to surf with guys.
Congrats on graduating from college in Hawaii! What are your experiences surfing in Hawaii in comparison to California?
Wow, it is so different surfing in Hawaii compared to California. I did not realize how fortunate I was to grow up in Ventura County until I moved to Hawaii. Growing up at first point Malibu, big waves that pack a punch are pretty rare. If you know me, I am so stoked on small playful waves. Hawaii has totally toughed me up and humbled me.
Watching for the next set. Photo of Taylor Nelson by John Hook. |
The Hawaiian sunsets. Taylor Nelson drops in. Photo by John Hook. |
Taylor wears the Palomar Crop Top and Leucadia High Waisted Skirt. Photo by Ian Zamora. |
Taylor Nelson in the Zuma in Burgundy. Photo via @tayrosenels |
There is no one size fits all for surfboards but some of the Bing longboards come pretty darn close. Read on to find out which magic Bing longboard model that three of the Seeababes swear by.
]]>Mele Saili wears the Capitola Top in Prarie, Rincon neoprene Jacket and Marina Pants. Photo by Nick LaVecchia for Without Walls. |
Mele wears the Hermosa in Earth Waves, riding her Bing longboard. Photo by Nick LaVecchia. |
Mele Saili holds the custom Seea x Bing Surfboard that we are raffling off now! Click for more info. Contest ends May 31, 2015. |
Close-up of the logos on the bottom of the surfboard. Photo by Stone Crandall. |
funtemplates x Bing Surfboard! Photo by Stone Crandall. |
Lola Mignot wears the Zuma in Rose Petal with her Bing longboard. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Lola Mignot in the Zuma Surf Suit in Rose Petal. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Lola Mignot surfs her Bing longboard in the Zuma Surf Suit in Rose Petal. Photo by Luki O'Keefe. |
Taylor Nelson wears the Zuma in Black Stripe. Photo by Alex Shea. |
Taylor Nelson takes a break on her Bing longboard wearing in the Leucadia in Luna. |
Taylor Nelson levitates on the nose wearing the Zuma Surf Suit in Burgundy. |
Malibu-bred Taylor Nelson met up with friend and photographer Megan Moore recently for a dreamstate afternoon. Read on for more photos of Taylor savoring the salty breeze and being barefoot in the sand.
]]>Seeing the lovely Bing Surfboards team longboarder Taylor Nelson frolicking at Leo Carillo beach is as natively beautiful as a butterfly on a flower.
The Malibu local Taylor Nelson has been an amazing supporter of Seea and you may recognize her wearing our rashguards when she's cross-stepping in her new home of Hawaii. This summer Taylor was back in Cali and met up with friend and photographer Megan Moore at Leo Carillo beach — one of the Malibu breaks that Taylor grew up surfing — for a dreamstate afternoon of savoring the salty breeze and being barefoot in the sand.
"Connecting through photography is really rad because you get to visually interpret who someone is and express the light they carry in a way that I think is really special. Taylor is so full of light and joy and natural elegance," says Megan of her subject.
As friends bonded through surf camp years ago, join in on Taylor and Megan's timeless afternoon.
Taylor Nelson in the Leucadia. Photo by Megan Moore. |
Taylor Nelson in the Leucadia. Photo by Megan Moore. |
Taylor Nelson in the Leucadia. Photo by Megan Moore. |
Photo by Megan Moore. |
Photo by Megan Moore. |
Photo by Megan Moore. |
Taylor Nelson in the Palomar Crop Top and Pavones bottom in Red Flower. Photo by Megan Moore. |
Taylor Nelson in the Palomar Crop Top in Red Flower. Photo by Megan Moore. |
Taylor Nelson in the Palomar Crop Top and Pavones bottom in Red Flower. Photo by Megan Moore. |
Taylor Nelson in the Palomar Crop Top and Pavones bottom in Red Flower. Photo by Megan Moore. |
Check out more of Megan Moore's photography at her site!